We already know mulch is decorative. In fact, it’s a relatively quick way to improve the look of your entire yard. Just spread mulch around your flower beds, trees and shrubs and, voilà! Now your yard looks amazing. But which type of mulch should you buy? After all, it comes in different materials, colors, and sizes.

What is mulch?

Basically, any material that covers soil is considered mulch. This includes hard elements like pebbles and stones to softer ones like compost and straw.

What are the benefits of mulch?

At Five Seasons Landscape Management, we believe soil should never be left exposed. Ground covering protects soil from erosion, helps retain moisture, and maintains the soil’s temperature. All of which are beneficial for plant growth.

• Controls soil erosion: from wind and rain.
• Retains moisture: to reduce the amount and frequency of watering.
• Maintains soil temp: to reduce stress on your plants.

Why you need to get rid of weeds before mulching:

Not only are weeds ugly, they also steal valuable nutrients from your plants. Aggressive weeds can be downright destructive, taking over your yard or garden. In a previous article, we discussed whether you should kill weeds or pull them. Either way, make sure to get rid of weeds before applying mulch.

Organic mulch vs. inorganic mulch

Organic mulch is made from natural materials that break down over time. Examples include wood bark, compost, straw, and grass. Inorganic mulch consists of gravel, stones, and pebbles. Both types of mulch help deter weeds and maintain moisture, but organic mulch can provide added nutritional benefits to your plants.
It’s time to mulch your garden and landscaping.

What is organic mulch?

Organic mulch is good for your soil because it adds nutrients as it breaks down and decays over time.

• Wood bark: Bark is…well, bark. It comes in large pieces, decays slowly and should only be used on top of the soil (not mixed in).
• Wood chips: Smaller than bark, they consist of chopped pieces of branches and plant matter. They retain water better and break down faster than bark.
• Shredded wood: Decomposes the quickest. Its fine texture works well to control weeds and cover pathways.
• Compost: Too fine to be a top mulch because it does not suppress weeds effectively, compost is best mixed into soil for added nutrition.
• Straw: Commonly used in vegetable gardens, a thick layer of pine straw can suppress weeds and add acid to the soil. Just watch out on windy days as some may blow away.
• Grass Clippings: Free and readily available, only use small amounts of green grass that have not been fertilized or treated for weeds.

What is inorganic mulch?

If low maintenance is a deciding factor in your landscaping then inorganic materials like pebbles, stones or gravel are right for you. These rocks help keep in moisture, block weed growth, and can look pretty in flower beds. Unfortunately, however, there are no nutrient benefits. Pumice rock is commonly used in flower beds because it’s lightweight and porous (retains moisture).

Why is hardwood mulch popular?

Hardwood mulch is one of the most popular types of mulch used today. It’s affordable, easy to apply, and can be conveniently purchased in bulk or by the bag.

three different types of mulch offered for sale at a garden supply center

What are the different types of hardwood mulch?

Not only are there varying sizes and shapes of wood mulch, there are also different types of wood used.

• Cedar mulch: Cedar oil is natural insect repellant (termites hate it) but it may also repel the “good” garden bugs like worms and ladybugs. It lasts a long time and smells great!
• Cypress mulch: The bark and the wood of the cypress tree are ground up into chips or shredded. They stay in place and smell pleasant.
• Colored mulch: Comes in black, brown, red, and specialty colors. But don’t worry, the dye is non-toxic and safe. Colored mulch is usually a combo of wood chips and shredded pieces.
• Natural mulch: No color is added to this wood-based mulch and it has the same benefits of the others.
• Hardwood chips: This mulch consists of chopped up pieces of hardwood bark. It decomposes faster due to its small size so it’s great for areas that you till often.
• Fresh wood chips: Want to make your own mulch? If you have a wood chipper/spreader you can recycle broken limbs and debris and turn it into mulch.

How do I apply mulch?

First, remove all weeds. Next, add compost or other nutrients and work them into the soil. Finally, apply a 3-inch layer of mulch, making sure to keep away from plant stems and tree trunks.
How much mulch do I need to buy?

There are many online mulch calculators, like this one provided by Better Homes & Gardens. You can also contact Five Seasons Landscape Management to find out more on mulch types and amounts.

We are a Columbus, Ohio, landscaping company certified and licensed by the Ohio Department of Agriculture. We serve residential and commercial customers in landscape design and maintenance services.

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As commercial landscapers serving the Columbus metro area, one of the most common questions we hear from property managers and facility directors each year is how to treat a lawn in spring. Our answer is always the same: it’s less about how and more about when.

Columbus, Ohio throws everything at us — 70-degree days in February followed by snow in April. That weather variability makes spring lawn care timing critical. Move too early and you risk crushing new grass shoots or wasting product on soil that isn’t ready. Wait too long and you’ll miss narrow application windows for pre-emergent weed control and overseeding.

This guide walks through the key spring lawn care steps in the right order, with Ohio-specific timing guidance for each one.

When Should You Start Spring Lawn Care in Columbus?

Resist the urge to start outside work after the first warm weekend. The rule of thumb for Columbus properties is to wait until your lawn is mostly green and nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F — typically late April in central Ohio, though warm spells in February can tempt even experienced property managers.

A good natural indicator: wait until forsythia bushes finish blooming. That signals soil temperatures are in the right range for most spring treatments.

Spring Lawn Care Steps in the Right Order

1. Rake and Dethatch

Start by raking out the thatch — dead grass and debris that accumulated over winter. Thatch buildup blocks sunlight, air, and moisture from reaching your turf. Once the ground has dried out and is no longer soft from frost, do a thorough raking before any other treatment.

Always dethatch before aerating for better results.

2. Aerate

Compacted soil is one of the most common problems on high-traffic commercial properties — parking areas, pathways, and heavily used lawn areas all suffer from compaction over winter. Aeration removes small plugs of soil to loosen the ground and allow air, water, and nutrients to reach the root zone.

Aeration doesn’t need to happen every year. For most commercial properties, every 2 to 3 years is sufficient depending on traffic levels and soil type.

3. Test Your Soil

A basic soil pH test takes the guesswork out of fertilization and weed control. The ideal pH range for most Ohio turf grasses is 6.0 to 7.0. Soil that is too acidic will reduce fertilizer effectiveness and encourage weed and moss growth.

If your soil test shows high acidity, apply lime before fertilizing. Many commercial property managers skip this step — it’s one of the most common reasons fertilization programs underperform.

4. Fertilize — Lightly

Spring fertilization should be lighter than fall feeding. New grass shoots are tender and can be overwhelmed by heavy nitrogen applications. Once your lawn is actively growing — typically late April to early May in Columbus — apply a balanced slow-release fertilizer.

Key nutrients to balance:

• Nitrogen — promotes growth and green color
• Phosphorus — supports root development
• Potassium — improves stress and drought tolerance

Your soil test results will tell you which nutrients your turf actually needs rather than guessing.

5. Apply Pre-Emergent Weed Control

Timing is everything with pre-emergent. It works by preventing weed seeds from germinating — once weeds are actively growing, it’s too late. For Columbus properties, apply pre-emergent as forsythia finishes blooming, typically early to mid-April.

Use a spreader for even coverage. The pre-emergent activates with water and remains effective for several weeks after application.

Important: you cannot apply pre-emergent and overseed at the same time. Pre-emergent will prevent grass seed from germinating just as effectively as weed seed. Choose one or the other for the season.

6. Overseed Bare or Thin Areas

After aerating and correcting soil pH, bare or thin areas of turf are ready for overseeding. Use a broadcast spreader for large areas and hand-seed smaller spots. After seeding, consistent watering and light fertilization are essential — don’t seed and walk away.

If you applied pre-emergent earlier in the season, wait a full 12 weeks before overseeding those areas.

Mowing Height Matters All Season

Once your lawn is actively growing, resist cutting it short to reduce mowing frequency. Cutting more than one-third of the grass blade height at once — known as scalping — depletes the turf’s energy reserves and can cause brown patches, thinning, and stress vulnerability going into summer.

Mow more frequently and remove less each time. The result is a thicker, healthier stand of turf through the summer months.

Spring Lawn Care for Commercial Properties in Columbus

Managing spring grounds care across a corporate campus, HOA community, healthcare facility, or retail property is a different challenge than a residential lawn. Multiple turf zones, high foot traffic areas, irrigation systems coming back online, and the need for consistent presentation across large acreage all require a structured approach and reliable execution.

Five Seasons Landscape Management provides commercial landscape maintenance programs for properties throughout Columbus, Ohio and the surrounding area — including spring cleanups, fertilization programs, pre-emergent applications, and full-season grounds management.

If you manage a commercial property and want to discuss spring grounds care, contact our team to schedule a property assessment.

Frequently Asked Questions About Spring Lawn Care in Ohio

When is it too early to start lawn care in Columbus, Ohio?

Generally, avoid starting spring lawn treatments until nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50°F and your lawn is mostly green. In Columbus this is typically late April, though it varies year to year.

Can I apply pre-emergent and grass seed at the same time?

No. Pre-emergent prevents all seeds from germinating, including grass seed. Choose one treatment for the season. If you applied pre-emergent, wait 12 weeks before overseeding.

How often should I aerate my lawn in Ohio?

Most Ohio lawns benefit from aeration every 2 to 3 years. High-traffic commercial properties may need it more frequently.

What fertilizer should I use in spring in Ohio?

A balanced slow-release fertilizer applied once your lawn is actively growing — typically late April to early May. Run a soil test first to identify which nutrients your specific turf needs.

When should I apply pre-emergent weed control in Columbus?

Apply pre-emergent in early to mid-April as forsythia finishes blooming. Soil temperature should be around 50–55°F at a 2-inch depth.

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Inspired by classic Mediterranean style, our Greek-inspired garden is highlighted by a cobalt blue, dome-topped pergola supported by ionic columns, meant to resemble one of the many buildings which dot the hillside along the Adriatic Sea.

Tall and narrow juniper trees mimic the Italian cedar trees popular in this region, while spiral sheared evergreens and boxwood hedges add to the classic, formal designs of older Greek villas.

Life-sized Greek gods, stone walls and brick flooring project the image of ancient Greece, and a water feature adds comfort and tranquility to the garden.

Violet flowers not only add vibrant color, they portray one of the first ever nursery-propagated plants which are known to date back to more than 500 B.C.

So, while you’re walking around the Home and Garden Show, stop by and stroll back to the future in our Grecian style garden!

Reasons to come to the Columbus Home and Garden Show

Spring and summer weather may be better suited for outdoor home and garden projects, but now is the time to start the planning process. What better place to get answers to your landscaping and remodeling questions than at the Home and Garden Show? Don’t let spring sneak up on you unprepared.

• Plan Your Spring Renovation
  Instead of flipping through weekend home improvement ads, come to the Ohio Expo Center and speak directly with industry experts. Ask questions, get insider tips and request cost estimates from some of the best builders, remodelers and landscapers in town.
• Bring the Outside In
  The theme for this years’ expo is “Bringing the Outside in.” Walk through a deconstructed home and see a variety of ways to infuse nature into your home.
• International Gardens
  Travel around the world in 12 international gardens inspired by countries like Ireland, Mexico, France, Greece, China, Japan, Germany and more!
• Latest Products and Design Trends
  Hundreds of home and garden industry craftsmen, professionals, and experts with the latest trends and know-how to help you start your next project.
• Entertainment
  • Pete Nelson from Treehouse Masters
  • Drew and Jonathan Scott from Property Brothers
• Incentives
  Exhibitors often offer discounts to attendees, so this is a great opportunity to get a price quote on your next project. There will also be $20,000 worth of giveaways so make sure to ask how to enter.

The Columbus Home and Garden Show is a great place to meet local craftsmen and experts who can bring your home and garden ideas to life. Five Seasons Landscape Management will be at the show displaying our beautiful Greek garden, so stop by and say, “Hi!”

The Columbus Dispatch Home and Garden Show
The Ohio Expo Center, 717 E 17th Avenue, Columbus, OH
Feb 18 – 26, 2017

Tickets are $13 at the door and $11 online. Children 12 and under are free.

Buy tickets here

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Want to Grow Your Own Seeds Indoors for a Vegetable Garden? Here’s How!

Why Grow Seeds Indoors?

There are several benefits to starting a vegetable garden with seeds rather than actual plants. The biggest perk is the cost savings. It’s much less expensive to buy seeds now than it is to purchase plants in the spring. This reduction in cost gives you the financial freedom to experiment with different varieties of vegetables without as much risk. So, if you like tomatoes you can plant cherry, beefsteak, and heirloom and see which type does best.

Two Phases of Seed Growth

When growing seeds inside there are two stages: germination and growth. During germination, the seeds are tucked away in their containers and need warmth and humidity. An easy way to keep them warm is to place them on top of your refrigerator. Make sure to check your seeds daily because once they sprout, they are in the second stage: growth. Now the plants need light, air circulation and a liquid fertilizer (more explanation in the steps below).

What Materials do I Need to Plant Vegetable Seeds in my House?

Seed starter kits are available, but you don’t need a kit to grow your own seeds at home. Here are the main items you need to get started:

1. Seeds
   Read the back of the seed packets to find out the number of days to maturity. This number will determine when you start the seeds. Choose the largest seeds and plant one per container. If your seeds are smaller, plant two. But don’t go crazy – more is not better, so no more than two.
2. Seed-starting mix
   Do not use soil! Your delicate little seedlings prefer a light and airy seed-starting mix, which is conveniently sold at your local gardening store. Put some of the mix in your containers, add water, pack it down a bit, add more mix and water again. Now you can sow your seeds.
3. Small containers
   Any small containers will do, such as yogurt cups or leftover plant flats from last spring. As long as the containers can hold up to ½ cup and you can poke holes in the bottom for drainage they’ll work fine. You may choose to buy pots made from material that decomposes, which you can later plant right in the ground to save a transplanting step.
4. A shallow pan
   The small containers need a waterproof pan or tray to sit in.
5. Water
   Growing seedlings like to remain moist – not wet or soggy – so water them from the bottom by adding water to the pan or tray and let the seeds soak up the water they need. You should also mist them with a water bottle so they get a little moisture from above as well.
6. Cover
   In the first few weeks, before you see any sprouts forming, the seedlings need a humid environment. You can create this easily by covering them with a lid or plastic bag.
7. Warmth
   The germinating seeds also need warmth. You can place them on top of the fridge (as mentioned earlier) or on top of a heating pad.
8. Air movement
   Once the seeds have sprouted, you no longer need to keep them covered or heated. Now the growing plants require plenty of air flow and light in order to thrive.
9. Light
   If your house faces south and you get a lot of sun coming in through your windows, this may be all the light your seeds need. Cloudy days, however, are not acceptable as these little guys need an average of 14-15 hours of light a day – every day. To play it safe, artificial light is the answer. You can purchase a grow light or make your own from a shop light equipped with fluorescent bulbs. Setting your light on a timer ensures that your plants get the right amount of light each day.
10. Liquid fertilizer
    While your plants are enjoying their light, also feed them some liquid fertilizer for extra nutrition. Simply read the label on the back for directions.

When is the Last Frost Date in my Area?

Plant your seedlings six weeks before the last frost. You can look online to find the date for your area of the country. According to Urban Farmer, the last frost date for Columbus, Ohio, is April 28th.

Harden Your Vegetable Sprouts Before Planting Outside

Before you move your plants outside, you first need to slowly and gently acclimate them to the new environment. After all, they’ve been living in your cozy, temperature-and-wind-controlled home for all this time. Start hardening off two weeks prior to planting. Each day, take your plants outside for longer periods of time. Start with a few hours in the afternoon shade and expose them to more and more sunlight as time progresses.

What Vegetables Grow Best in Ohio

Many veggies originate from areas that get more hours of sunlight on a regular basis and have higher temperatures than Ohio, and seeds from these vegetables will not grow well in Midwest soil. Here is a list of popular vegetables that can do well in relatively cooler weather:

• Onions and Beets
• Broccoli, Cauliflower and Brussel Sprouts
• Lettuce, Cabbage, Spinach and Kale
• Peas and Carrots
• Tomatoes, Cucumber and Peppers

If you plant a vegetable garden this year and grow seeds in your home, you’ll enjoy delicious food that you cultivate all on your own. It can’t get any healthier than that! Have questions? The plant pros at Five Seasons Landscape Management can help with your garden and landscape needs. Contact us today!

The post The Benefits of Using Seeds When Growing a Vegetable Garden Indoors appeared first on Five Seasons Landscape.

4 tips to protect plants from winter damage:

1. Fall is a great time to do the tune-ups necessary to protect your garden from winter damage.
   According to Better Homes and Gardens, a key part of preparing your garden for winter is cleaning up and covering up. Clean up by paring back your perennials and remove any slimy or wet leaves, as unwanted bugs and diseases can thrive in this environment. Cover up to ensure soil temperatures remain even and consistent. Simply spread a fresh, thick layer of mulch over your existing gardens for extra insulation.
2. Another method for protecting plants from frost and other winter damage is the use of plant covers.
   Plant covers are a simple and effective way to protect plants from the cold weather. They work by providing a warm, safe haven for plants to hide out until the spring thaw. One type of plant cover is called a frost blanket.
   Frost blankets protect your garden from winter damage by keeping cold air out, while allowing water and sunlight in. Typically, frost blankets are made from lightweight, breathable fabric and are usually UV-stabilized. This means they remain durable when exposed to sunlight and can last for several growing seasons.
   Row covers are similar to frost blankets, but they cover a larger area and are meant for an entire garden, as opposed to a single plant. You can read more about both frost blankets and row covers over.
3. Watering plants a few days before frost is expected is another way to prepare your garden for winter.
   Why does watering help? Wet soil holds more heat than dry soil, so when you water your plants before the first big frost you are, essentially, helping the soil retain heat. Be careful, however, not to water the plants too late in the season, as that can lead to frost heave.
   Frost heave occurs when the soil is exposed to freezing temperatures, while also being exposed to an excess amount of moisture. This results in alternating freezing and thawing conditions. The cold air that gets into the ground freezes the moisture that is already in the soil, turning it into small ice particles. These particles then form a layer of ice, which can lift the soil – and the plant – right out of the ground. This obviously has a very adverse effect on the plant and your garden. Luckily, this is avoidable as long as you take the right steps to protect your plans from frost.
4. Unfortunately, these tips may not be enough to fully protect all of your plants from frost and other forms of winter damage.
   For more tender plants, wintering indoors or in a cold frame may be the best idea.
   A cold frame is a short, enclosed box with a transparent roof (to let the sunlight in). It’s like a little greenhouse and its pretty easy to build one yourself. Cold frames provide the right amount of protection and insulation to keep more delicate plants alive through winter. According to Gardening Know How, cold frames are also a great way to harden plants prior to transplantation and to store hardy vegetables during the cold season.
   For more information about cold frames and how you can implement them in your winter gardening to protect your plants from frost and winter damage, check out.

Winter can be a dangerous time of year for your garden. But as long as you take the right steps and use a little gardening savvy it is relatively easy to make sure your plants survive. Whether you utilize winter plant covers, such as frost blankets, clean up and water your garden before the first frost, or to do all of the above tips combined, the time to start is now!

All of these tips are relatively simple to implement; in fact, most can be completed by one person without spending a ton of money. If you need assistance, however, be sure to contact the plant specialists at Five Seasons Landscape Management for help and advice.

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Irrigation blowout, close and winterizing

Once the bitter cold temperatures are upon us, the ground will inevitably freeze. You may think that draining your irrigation system is enough to protect it, but draining alone doesn’t remove all the water in the pipes. And we know what happens to water when it freezes: it turns into hard, damaging ice that can wreak havoc on your irrigation pipes.

The best way to protect your irrigation pipes over winter is to make sure all the water has been removed by thoroughly blowing out the system.

To properly blow the water out of your system you’ll need an air compressor. This means if you don’t own one, you need to rent one. Once you have a compressor and you’re ready to blow, you’ll need to make sure the pressure is regulated, because too much pressure can damage the pipes. And wear protective glasses, just in case.

Sure, you can accomplish this task yourself; however, you better know what you’re doing to avoid damaging your valves from too much pressure. Or, you can call a professional who has the right tools and experience to blow out your irrigation system, stress-free!

Leaf removal and composting

If you have trees, you probably have fallen leaves; and to protect your grass from being smothered, and potentially dying, you need to remove them. After you blow, rake or mow the leaves away, you might consider recycling them into compost. Why? Composting leaves is an easy way to create an organic, nutrient-rich additive for your garden soil. Plus, you’re recycling!

According to The Compost Guide, the leaves of most trees contain twice as many minerals as manure. But merely raking leaves into piles and leaving them sit until spring does not produce the right result. To avoid being stuck with a soggy, matted, useless mess, you need to do a little more work.

First, determine where you want your compost pile(s) to hang out over winter. One option is to buy some inexpensive chicken wire to contain your compost; it’s not only cheap, it’s also easy to work with. Bend the wire into a circle or square; it doesn’t matter the shape. You just need a way to contain the leaves so they don’t blow away.

Next, you need leaves. Using your lawnmower to collect leaves saves time. Plus, the mower’s blades shred the leaves into smaller sizes, which makes them easier to work with.

To speed up the decomposing process (after all, you want to use the compost in spring) you need to add a source of nitrogen. Common choices include grass clippings, manure, nitrogen fertilizer, or a compost activator. When adding manure or grass clippings, use a five to one ratio. When adding fertilizer or activator, simply follow the directions on the package.

Compost also needs oxygen, so give your piles a stir every couple of weeks to keep the air circulating. When spring arrives you’ll have some prime organic matter to mix in with your garden soil.

Spring bulb planting

Now’s the time when the ground is cold enough to plant your spring bulbs. Ohio favorites include daffodils and tulips! Make sure to pick an area in your yard where the bulbs will get full sun. The size of the bulb affects how deep you need to plant them; basically, a three-to-one ratio. So, if a bulb is 2 inches long, plant it 6 inches deep.

And remember to plant your bulbs pointy side up (root side down). If you have compost, add it to the soil for extra nutrients, then water the bulbs so they can settle in. And don’t be afraid to get creative. These spring flowers don’t need to be planted in a row. To add a little drama to your yard, why not group different bulbs together? Then, just wait until spring for your colorful surprise! You can read more about spring bulb planting in this previous article.

Fall is the perfect time for irrigation close and winterizing, leaf removal and composting, and spring bulb planting. So, get out there and enjoy the cooler weather and beautiful landscapes. As always, if you have questions on your outdoor yard projects, just contact us for help.

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